In and Out of Iguazu Falls

Our day vegging by the hotel pool in the Argentinean town of Iguazu was well-timed. The next two days witnessed heavier athletic fare, with long hikes in 90 degree sunshine and tropic humidity also near that number. But it was another once in a lifetime experience, for this is Iguazu Falls.

NAVIGATING MISTS AND CASCADES
These waterfalls, some 275 in number, are the widest in the world. It took us the better part of one day to hike the various trails along the Argentinean side, often over iron lattice pathways that overlooked progressively more breathtaking misty vistas. We climbed above some of the falls, around others and down lower paths to the base of still others, frequently accompanied by flocks of inquisitive, colorful butterflies. What a series of views! It is remarkable that one calm river of freshwater can feed the torrents of rapids that lead to the deep caverns of Iguazu. I think I've cornered the market on digitals of flowing water, but the diversity of these panoramas require visual reinforcement; they defy adequate written description.





We dragged back to the hotel by late afternoon, then treated ourselves to cold showers and a cool siesta (two delicious hours).

AT THE JUNCTURE OF THREE COUNTRIES
As I've mentioned previously, the weather on this continent is completely unpredictable. In Patagonia, we often experienced all four seasons within the same day, and were prepared with layers of clothing to accommodate each. I mention this tidbit because we rarely discussed the weather; it was consistently sunny and beautiful throughout the trip, even at Cape Horn, and we refused to jinx any eavesdropping native meteorological demigod.

So as we walked the dark streets that night towards the dinner restaurant of choice, we noted with amusement that a rainstorm was finally imminent. We chose to dine outdoors, under an overhanging tin roof at the river's edge. Although our table was in Argentina, across the river to our right was Brazil; across to the left Paraguay. When thunder and lightening finally made their dramatic presentation, and torrents pounded overhead, we were treated to one of nature's more exciting dinner shows.

WORTH THE $140 BRAZILIAN VISA
Our final day in Iguazu added four immigration stamps to the passport, as we now moved across to the Brazilian side of the Falls. The national park of this country afforded scenic perspective, with about ninety minutes of cooler elevated trails on the far side of the canyon, facing the major Argentinean cascades. Every few feet demanded another stop, gasp and click. Truly a natural wonder.





BACK TO REALITY
It's a flight back to Buenos Aires tonight. Our final dinner party will no doubt include detailed favorite reminiscences of the past three weeks. Tomorrow we cruise a lake near Buenos Aires for some light sightseeing, then head one last time to the airport for the big bird home. I'm sorry to see it end, but do look forward to the North American homestead, TiVo and menus in a language I often understand.

For now, the journal is closed.

Location:Iguazu, Argentina

Climate Change

Now this is more of my idea of a vacation. Glacial hikes behind us, the final few days of this experience are spent back in the tropical climate of northern Argentina, where the additional borders of Brazil and Paraguay collide. In fact, I'm reclining poolside (in the shade, of course) at my hotel in Iguazu, Argentina, overlooking the greenery of Paraguay.


Temps have moved from near freezing at Cape Horn to the upper 80's here. It's a day of relief after several spent traveling out of Patagonia. On disembarking from the expedition ship at Ushuaia, we enjoyed an additional day at that southernmost city in the world, which has grown to a boom town of 100,000 in the past twenty years. This is the gateway to Antarctica, and many visitors flood the streets of the former Argentinean penal colony. The main street is crowded with folk art, native jewelry and tourist dives. It has a flavor much like Sitka, Alaska, with less Palin and more Spanish. The culinary highlight is king crab, which I eagerly awaited. Our dinner restaurant served it in many varieties; I selected crabmeat baked in a garlic and olive oil casserole, with a "Russian" salad of cold potato chunks, peas, carrots and, of all things, a mayonnaise-base dressing. Yum.

POTHOLES AND RIVERS
Dinner followed a terrific day exploring the outskirts of Ushuaia. Our group was invited to the home of one of the local guides, who served us a brunch of beef and chicken empanadas from her domicile, with commanding views of some of the Atlantic saltwater inlets that pervade this town. This was preceded by some 4-wheel drive Jeep action. Small groups were escorted through the back trails outside of town, where deep ruts were often filled with rainwater. It was a bouncy, muddy and hilarious experience. Here we are negotiating a ravine stream created by a large beaver dam, to the right. Dams are everywhere in Patagonia, as the beaver, only introduced a few years ago, have taken over the riparian environment.


Our next morning found us back on LAN Chile Airlines, heading to Buenos Aires. It was another long day of travel, but fun awaited us late afternoon at our hotel when the group was introduced to ... our tango instructors for the evening! After a patient hour on their part, we mastered the art form (yeah, right). Lots of laughs, and reminiscent of the tango craze of the late 80's, when my friends and I studied the dance in earnest, and actually spent evenings lookin' good. Well, I'm game to resume if they are.

DINNER IS NOT AT EIGHT
This was our farewell evening for those on the main tour, who would not be joining us for the excursion northward to Iguazu. We enjoyed a dinner party together at a fine Buenos Aires location, where most of us savored the hometown favorite: Argentinean sirloin, grilled perfectly. Meals in Chile and Argentina are served on a different schedule than those in the northern hemisphere. Breakfast is later than ours; lunch as well and followed by a siesta. Dinner is very late; sometimes as late as 11 p.m. The streets of Buenos Aires are teeming with crowds well after midnight, even midweek. I get the impression that most folks here survive on around six hours of evening sleep. And they do party hearty.

HOW IT'S SUPPOSED TO BE DONE
And so, despite the long travel day, about a dozen of us followed dinner with a late evening performance of tango and local music at a marvelous cabaret, with stunning choreography and costuming.


The music was provided by a combo consisting of accordions, violins, piano, guitar and bass. Seven elegant couples provided an array of athletic tango styles, interspersed with male and female singers and instrumental pieces. We recognized one of our brave dance instructors of earlier in the day as part of the ensemble. However, on him it looked good.

Although the day was full, it was invigorating. After only a few hours sleep, we were aboard LAN Chile again for the morning hop farther north to Iguazu. We'll be here two nights, with lots of hiking around the Argentinean and Brazilian sides of the main event: mighty Iguazu Falls, beginning tomorrow.

Location:Iguazu, Argentina

Cruisin' Tierra del Fuego - 3

(Internet achieved! Three entries posted today follow, beginning at "1," below.)

A MORNING AT THE CAPE
Pre-dawn, we were up and about for an exciting highlight: disembarkment from our ship into Zodiacs to transport us through the crashing waves where Pacific meets Atlantic, then the steep climb to the summit of Cape Horn. Luckily, the seas were calmer than usual, and the trip to our landing point brisk and pleasant. The long ascent began: 160 vertical steps to the top of the Cape.


It was worth every step. At the summit, a lighthouse is staffed by a Chilean naval officer, his wife and young son. There also is a memorial to the hundreds of ships and thousands of lost souls who tried to circumnavigate the Cape without success since the 16th C. This was the view witnessed by Darwin and Magellan, Fitz Roy and Drake. Here's what early morning looks like from the southernmost point on earth.


We lingered as long as the Rangers would allow, then headed to the small wooden chapel near the lighthouse. A light rain descended but we had no complaint, for as we approached the arc of a rainbow broke directly over the chapel. We learned that local tribesmen viewed rainbows as negative omens, and cursed their appearance with foreboding. The Yamanas were a seafaring people, who lived most of their cold existence here naked, smeared only in seal blubber and afloat on small canoes. Darwin recorded them as subhuman non-conversant savages, but subsequent documentation of their spoken language demonstrated a daily vocabulary several times more complex than the Spanish conquistadors. Go figure. Darwin later amended his evaluation. Although Dior remains unmoved.

AN AFTERNOON IN WULAIA BAY
Back at the ship we warmed up with a late breakfast, short nap and a lunch of all-Chilean delicacies. Then back to the Zodiacs for a ride into Wulaia Bay, where the first contact between Westerners and aboriginals occured in the 1800's. A local guide helped us spend the afternoon exploring native settlement sites, wildlife and distinctive geology. Some of the vistas seemed untouched. It reminded me of northeastern lake districts, but these were inlets and small islands at the base of Tierra del Fuego, surrounded by the tidal convergence of two oceans.


Later today we land at the Argentinian city of Ushuaia, where we depart the ship portion of our tour tomorrow for further land and air adventures.

Location:Wulaia, Chile

Cruisin' Tierra del Fuego - 2

INTO THE ZODIACS FOR AINSWORTH BAY
The cruising part of this trip is aboard the Cruceros Stella Australis, a Chilean expedition vessel that offers the comforts of a cruise ship (great cuisine!) and several onshore adventures each day. To get from here to there, we are trained to board and exit a rubber Zodiac vehicle, which whisks us from ship to shore by sitting along its inflated perimeter and not embarrassingly falling backward into an ocean. Life jackets are mandatory, and to date all souls are accounted for.

First stop was Marinelli Glacier at Ainsworth Bay. Magnificent. We're trying not to become too blasé about these glacier experiences. A subsequent visit to the Pia Glacier was breathtaking, and one does not tire of witnessing the calving of an iceberg as it cascades down the front of a blue ice block, then crashes with a loud boom into the sea.


This was followed by a long walk with a naturalist, who detailed the beautiful atmosphere within what I can only describe as a placid, cool rainforest. It does rain in Patagonia, on and off throughout each day, but it is a pleasant, refreshing experience. It's too cool for most insects, but the land is lush with plant and wildlife, seemingly unspoiled although once heavily populated by native South Americans.

BLACK TIE OPTIONAL
A short cruise and another Zodiac ride took us around the coast of the Tucker Islets. Here we witnessed wildlife in abundance, with our favorite the eagerly anticipated Magellanic penguins. It's the end of summer, and all the chicks have moved into the Pacific to feed and fend for themselves. The exhausted adult penguins remain behind two more weeks for some heavy-duty molting, then make their departure northward (the only direction to go) for warmer climes and good eats.


We bid this happy colony goodbye, then drifted among large flocks of cormorants, caracaras, condors and turkey vultures. It's a retirement community for loud squawkers. None seemed bothered by our intrusion. I could have visited longer, but we had to move on. This trip not only takes us into the Straits of Magellan, the first discovered east-west pathway from Atlantic to Pacific, but also through the Beagle Channel, the other historic passageway, taken by Darwin's ship further south.

GLACIER ALLEY
And speaking of the Channel, when we arrived there, an amazing afternoon was spent gliding by the series of scenic glaciers named after various European countries that provided exploratory fleets to the area.


This panoply was witnessed from the warmth of one of the ship's salons. As we passed each identified glacier, waiters appeared with trays of hors d'oeuvres and wines representing related countries. Very civilized, although we were rather snockered by the time we finally completed the Alley. Had Darwin been so treated when the Beagle first passed this way, he may never have gotten around to writing "On the Origin of Species."

Location:Beagle Channel, Chile

Cruisin' Tierra del Fuego - 1

Internet connectivity in this part of Patagonia is a concept for some future entrepreneur, so these next few entries are journals to be posted once I reachieve urban Argentina. Here are highlights, in no particular order.

THE WINDY COASTS OF PATAGONIA
By the time we completed our fourth day of hiking through the awesome scenic beauty of the national parks mentioned earlier, our group of 24 stalwart tourists came to the conclusion that there were no turkeys in the crowd, and we'd coalesce into a fun group of motivated travelers. Our trip leader, Carlos, was the key factor, exuding as much energy as learned tidbits about local customs, color and, of course, cuisine. Laughter came easily, as everyone was determined to get the most out of this fascinating opportunity.

One day we took a long hike along a mountain lake that included chunks of blue icebergs bobbing close to its shore. The expanse of beachfront was composed of a collection of rounded dark rocks of various sizes and geologic derivation. Nearer the frigid water one of our group, a charming lady from Guatemala, found that her shoe was wedged between rocks and heavy sand. The situation was not improved when her outstretched walking stick became similarly encased. Although this was hardly quicksand scenario, each rescuer had to precariously negotiate the goo. Laughter reached its height when finally, as if managing a fire line, we extricated the lady, but not the shoe. That took a separate rescue mission. But, for now, humanoids triumphed over the elements.

ABOUT THAT WIND
Each time we face the increasing intensity of Patagonian bluster, we assume we've experienced the strongest wind possible. And each time, we're wrong. This is many times stronger than the gusts that blew over me in Chicago, up to 150 kilometers/hour. Branches of trees along the shore mature in a permanently horizontal configuration.


We've been trained to drop to one knee when facing a blast that will flatten anyone upright. (Are we having fun yet? Yes!) My walking stick helps. And, of course, with it I do look noticeably dashing.

ESTANCIA RIO VERDE
We spent a delightful day and overnight on a Patagonian sheep and cattle ranch. This estancia, one of the largest, manages 10,000 sheep. The owners and staff were gracious and charming; the decor rustic (generated lights out at 11 p.m.) and the authentic Chilean food delicious, including an "asado de cordero" (lamb barbecue). We could be reasonably assured that the lamb was fresh.


Our timing was lucky, as this was the week for the end of summer shearing, not of the complete sheep but only of the wool around its eyes. Since these animals live solely outdoors throughout the year, sheep without this particular trim would be prone to blindness due to the winter freezing of wool otherwise over its eyes. I was surprised at how docile these animals can be. Once picked up for shearing, they demonstrate no resistance at all, bleating the occasional protest only if held too long.

TO THE SHIP
After moving on to the city of Punta Arenas (nice shopping, but inadequate internet for blogging) prior to boarding the cruise portion of the trip, we stopped for drinks at the main hotel. Moving through the area, I heard someone say, "That looks like Al Zemsky!" and once again, as in previous trips in Cambodia and Italy, I ran into a former colleague from EPA. Not only were Ann and Ken Bigos passing through Punta Arenas, but they were booked on the same expedition ship into Tierra del Fuego as I. So we'll spend additional time together. Small world, even on this southern tip of South America.

Location:Punta Arenas, Chile

St. Paddy's Day

No corn beef and cabbage today. I'm back in Chile's southwestern portion of Patagonia, and there's nary a leprechaun in sight. The past few days have been eye-openers. We're motoring through a very windy, rocky expanse, where gauchos on horseback rule the range in traditional attire, as small camel-like animals called guanacos roam freely among red foxes and pumas. Above us, adult condors swoop in circular air thermals in search of prey.

But yesterday, still in Argentina, the vista was different and as thrilling. Los Glaciares National Park is a wonderland of natural beauty, not the least of which is the Perito Moreno glacier. We spent hours facing the ascending front of this blue and white glacier, treated to the calving of icebergs as they broke off from the main body and landed with the sound of gunshot into the frigid waters below. The air was remarkably clear and brisk, and the temperature was only in the 40s.


Today we crossed back to Chile's Torres Del Paine National Park. It took a good half day to drive through only part of this mountain system, with lakes, waterfalls and wind gusts that can literally knock you over. We'll spend another half-day tomorrow hiking around the park area in which our hotel is located.


Then it's a move farther south to overnight on a local ranch, after which we board a ship for four days around the fjords and to Cape Horn. Internet service will probably not be available until we disembark back in Argentina. The blog will resume then.

Location:Torres Del Paine, Chile

Into Patagonia

Lots of air travel over the past three days has brought us, at last, to the main event: Patagonia. I'm ready for my glacier! We just landed in El Calafate, toward the narrow, southwestern tip of Argentina. It's an expansive series of rocky plains; the steppes of the Andes rise to snowy summits across a powder blue Lake Argentino. Today is clear and beautiful, in the mid-50s and uncharacteristically windless. A black-chested buzzard eagle glides along our route in local welcome as we head for the small mountain town.

El Calafate is a surprise. I anticipated a rural, 1950s ambiance. Instead, this is like a mini Lake Tahoe, without the ski lifts. Restaurants, shops and overall architecture are modern and inviting. Our hotel is upscale, but decorated in the decor of a Rockies spa. Rockies/Andes; it's an extension of the same mountain range. An afternoon walk around the area was scenic and refreshing, with black-necked white swans darting in the lake while brisk air reinforced the certainty that fall is approaching the bottom of this hemisphere.


Quite the contrast to the tropical heat of Easter Island only a few days ago. Our post-tsunami final day there was filled with discoveries of historical artifacts and archeological highlights. This view is from the top of the highest volcanic mountain on the island, whose crater lake provides a central water supply. The Pacific can be seen over the break in the crater wall, caused by lava flow (occurring during a previous tour).


We drove around the island a great deal during our last day, but didn't return to the northern shore, where the previous day's tsunami landed. Damages were estimated, and we can only assume minor. The locals seemed unfazed. The chief concern is any possible degradation to the Moai statues, which are continuously in a state of restoration. Our final evening was spent toasting these incredible islanders and their ancestors, as we watched the sun sink into the South Pacific.

The next day, it was a long flight returning to Santiago, then hopping another to Buenos Aires, where the remaining members of our tour awaited. B.A. is like a major city in Spain or Italy, both of which are represented by large populations here. The central avenue is an astonishing 10 lanes across, and surging with traffic. Pedestrian crosswalks are considered polite suggestions; it's like trying to cross the street Vietnam: keep your eyes straight ahead and think positive. Among the most enjoyable historic sites experienced was the Presidential Palace, still in use, where either Eva Peron greeted her adoring people or Madonna, as Evita, tried the same. There's a lot of Evita worship here; we visited her tomb, as popular a tourist attraction today as it was 50 years ago.


We also got a kick out of the Buenos Aires subway, one of the world's oldest. The conductor was kind enough to let me try the controls. I think I'm in the union now, and definitely support Argentinean collective bargaining.

Tonight it's dinner together with the entire tour (24), and a visit to a local tango show. ¡Olé!

Location:El Calafate, Argentina

How To Ride Out A Tsunami

Dawn broke with the final burst of an overnight tropical storm, and the dark news of a major seismic event in Japan. Although many thousands of miles away in the South Pacific, we on Easter Island were in the path of the resulting tsunami. Our plans for a leisurely day outdoors among the Moai ruins were modified to include a mandatory evacuation, along with the local population, to higher ground.

There are three prominent volcanic craters on the island. I would have thought emergency planning would have moved us to one of these, but when tsunamis hit, as they sometimes do, local islanders go to the airport. No Super Shuttles here. With typical island nonchalance the natives drift toward the landing strip, built by NASA for backup space landings, which can easily accommodate the assembly of 3,000 locals and tourists, and is safely above the open sea areas.

Since we had nine hours announced lead time before scheduled impact, we somewhat surrealistically resumed our normal touring activities around the island. We did stop at a market to pick up emergency water, peanut butter and cookies (all food groups thus covered, with the exception of chocolate), just in case. Our tour guide also thoughtfully assembled sandwich fixings, because inadvertently missing a meal would be socially unacceptable.


The ceremonial sites around this island are unique, and stand as testimony to a highly advanced civilization that deteriorated to extinction. The Moai stone heads of Easter Island, identically carved from the same quarry over a period of many centuries, represented homage to individual tribal leaders, whose identities are lost.


Hundreds of these multi-ton monuments exist, although all were thrown down during tribal civil wars that decimated the population. Competing chieftains, over the course of five hundred years, depleted every natural resource without thought of replenishment. Ultimately, not a tree was left standing on this now-lush island. The soil, over-harvested and eroded due to deforestation, produced insufficient food. A highly technical and scientific society of interrelated clans was reduced to barbarism, even cannibalism, in competition for food. By the 1700's, less than 10% of the natives were left; many were subsequently wiped away from diseases provided by Western missionaries.

The island now is a treasury of unique monumental heads and ceremonial platforms. Most are at the ocean line, facing the shore as the spirit of depicted ancestors gaze benevolently out over the clan, as I do here.


So here we sit, in the airport departure lounge. Most of the islanders opted to remain outdoors, with tourists camping in here. The one snack shop/bar has done a brisk business in foreign trade, to the background accompaniment of continuous island music. I expected at least a strong change in barometric pressure at the appointed hour, but the tsunami came ashore peacefully at low tide. The authorities will keep us sequestered for a few hours more, to assure against followup aftershock events, then we resume festivities.

An all-around unanticipated, adventurous day, whose key unanswered question remains: what's open for dinner?

Location:Easter Island

Sunset on Rapa Nui

It took a bit of air travel to get here, but since this paradise is the most isolated inhabited piece of land on Earth, I'm mollified. Easter Island, although a province of Chile, is on the eastern edge of Polynesia. The flight today was 5 hours due west of Santiago.

As expected, just about everything and everyone are laid back, vibrantly colorful, delightfully cheerful and moving at a fraction of what I take as conventional pace. Bright flowers proliferate, including around my neck in the form of a lei. With brisk end-of-summer trade winds and the lack of any major industry, air and water pollution are not known here. The Pacific is the bluest of azure, with surfer kids mastering monster waves, which convert to shooting columns of white foam as they crash against rocky volcanic shore inlets (the waves, not the kids). Fluffy clouds glide across an unencumbered horizon, whose shades of blue rival the ocean. Yeah, one can get accustomed.

After spending a couple of hours roaming around the hills on this side of the island, I'm on a patio at my hotel, papaya drink in hand. Cool breezes complement the lower 80's late afternoon temperature, and I can review the past couple of whirlwind days. It's been a lot of travel and a lot of LAN Chile Airlines. First stop was a flight from SFO to Lima. Nine hours and several on-board movies later, I was on my next flight, four hours to Santiago. Altogether not unpleasant, but with a morning arrival in Chile, the trick was to avoid sleeping the day away. At my downtown hotel, I met our tour guide for this adventure and another couple on this trip. The four of us explored an hour's worth of Santiago around the hotel, then were joined by the other six members of our tour. We'll be together for this Easter Island excursion for another four days, then join the remaining members of the tour in Buenos Aires, when our number will grow to 24.

Once everyone got an hour's rest, we took an extensive tour of Santiago, first via its new subway system, then on foot. This city is very much like a Mediterranean metropolis, with a strong Spanish influence in style and architecture. The day had been a long one for us all, so we enjoyed an early dinner at a revolving seafood restaurant above the city. The ten of us seem to get along famously; I'm hopeful the full assembly will have as much get up and go.

So this morning we got up and went back to the airport for the "domestic" flight to the island. We'll be at this hotel on Rapa Nui for the duration, with heavy duty archaeologic explorations beginning tomorrow. This accommodation reminds me of the complex in Tanzania: sprawling areas through flowered paths to private bungalows. Only in Tanzania you needed an armed ranger to walk around the hotel after dark, due to the myriad sets of predator eyes glowing back at you in the darkness. No such challenge here; the biggest threat may be the sudden appearance of an attack chicken.

Speaking of which, no complaints about the cuisine so far. Chilean sea bass last night, about as fresh as you could make it. For lunch today we had empanadas, a rich pastry stuffed with fresh tuna in a succulent sauce; dinner a breaded chicken concoction with spaghetti under Chilean piquant garnish. I suspect most of Chile will be fresh seafood; Argentina will be beef. This is a good program.

Next: the Moai statues of a vanished civilization.

Location:Easter Island, 2,200 miles west of Chile

On The Road Again

March finds me way south of the Mason-Dixon Line.  It's the end of summer in Chile, where my next trek begins.  The actual first stop is Rapa Nui, known as Easter Island, a territory belonging to Chile but located two time zones west of Santiago.  Four days in subtropical Polynesia, then on to a chillier itinerary: Patagonia and the southern tip of South America.

That trip will take me to Buenos Aires for a couple of days, then down to southern Chile for walks on glaciers, hiking in Andean national parks and several days cruising the Chilean fjords and Tierra del Fuego, around the tip of Cape Horn and the Strait of Magellan, more time to explore Buenos Aires and finally a flight farther north for a day each on the Argentinean and Brazilian sides of Iguassu Falls.  I anticipate lots of scenery.

Check this site for reflections and photos through the end of the month.  Previous travel blogs accessible by clicking the photo at right.