Into Patagonia

Lots of air travel over the past three days has brought us, at last, to the main event: Patagonia. I'm ready for my glacier! We just landed in El Calafate, toward the narrow, southwestern tip of Argentina. It's an expansive series of rocky plains; the steppes of the Andes rise to snowy summits across a powder blue Lake Argentino. Today is clear and beautiful, in the mid-50s and uncharacteristically windless. A black-chested buzzard eagle glides along our route in local welcome as we head for the small mountain town.

El Calafate is a surprise. I anticipated a rural, 1950s ambiance. Instead, this is like a mini Lake Tahoe, without the ski lifts. Restaurants, shops and overall architecture are modern and inviting. Our hotel is upscale, but decorated in the decor of a Rockies spa. Rockies/Andes; it's an extension of the same mountain range. An afternoon walk around the area was scenic and refreshing, with black-necked white swans darting in the lake while brisk air reinforced the certainty that fall is approaching the bottom of this hemisphere.


Quite the contrast to the tropical heat of Easter Island only a few days ago. Our post-tsunami final day there was filled with discoveries of historical artifacts and archeological highlights. This view is from the top of the highest volcanic mountain on the island, whose crater lake provides a central water supply. The Pacific can be seen over the break in the crater wall, caused by lava flow (occurring during a previous tour).


We drove around the island a great deal during our last day, but didn't return to the northern shore, where the previous day's tsunami landed. Damages were estimated, and we can only assume minor. The locals seemed unfazed. The chief concern is any possible degradation to the Moai statues, which are continuously in a state of restoration. Our final evening was spent toasting these incredible islanders and their ancestors, as we watched the sun sink into the South Pacific.

The next day, it was a long flight returning to Santiago, then hopping another to Buenos Aires, where the remaining members of our tour awaited. B.A. is like a major city in Spain or Italy, both of which are represented by large populations here. The central avenue is an astonishing 10 lanes across, and surging with traffic. Pedestrian crosswalks are considered polite suggestions; it's like trying to cross the street Vietnam: keep your eyes straight ahead and think positive. Among the most enjoyable historic sites experienced was the Presidential Palace, still in use, where either Eva Peron greeted her adoring people or Madonna, as Evita, tried the same. There's a lot of Evita worship here; we visited her tomb, as popular a tourist attraction today as it was 50 years ago.


We also got a kick out of the Buenos Aires subway, one of the world's oldest. The conductor was kind enough to let me try the controls. I think I'm in the union now, and definitely support Argentinean collective bargaining.

Tonight it's dinner together with the entire tour (24), and a visit to a local tango show. ¡Olé!

Location:El Calafate, Argentina