Cruisin' Tierra del Fuego - 3

(Internet achieved! Three entries posted today follow, beginning at "1," below.)

A MORNING AT THE CAPE
Pre-dawn, we were up and about for an exciting highlight: disembarkment from our ship into Zodiacs to transport us through the crashing waves where Pacific meets Atlantic, then the steep climb to the summit of Cape Horn. Luckily, the seas were calmer than usual, and the trip to our landing point brisk and pleasant. The long ascent began: 160 vertical steps to the top of the Cape.


It was worth every step. At the summit, a lighthouse is staffed by a Chilean naval officer, his wife and young son. There also is a memorial to the hundreds of ships and thousands of lost souls who tried to circumnavigate the Cape without success since the 16th C. This was the view witnessed by Darwin and Magellan, Fitz Roy and Drake. Here's what early morning looks like from the southernmost point on earth.


We lingered as long as the Rangers would allow, then headed to the small wooden chapel near the lighthouse. A light rain descended but we had no complaint, for as we approached the arc of a rainbow broke directly over the chapel. We learned that local tribesmen viewed rainbows as negative omens, and cursed their appearance with foreboding. The Yamanas were a seafaring people, who lived most of their cold existence here naked, smeared only in seal blubber and afloat on small canoes. Darwin recorded them as subhuman non-conversant savages, but subsequent documentation of their spoken language demonstrated a daily vocabulary several times more complex than the Spanish conquistadors. Go figure. Darwin later amended his evaluation. Although Dior remains unmoved.

AN AFTERNOON IN WULAIA BAY
Back at the ship we warmed up with a late breakfast, short nap and a lunch of all-Chilean delicacies. Then back to the Zodiacs for a ride into Wulaia Bay, where the first contact between Westerners and aboriginals occured in the 1800's. A local guide helped us spend the afternoon exploring native settlement sites, wildlife and distinctive geology. Some of the vistas seemed untouched. It reminded me of northeastern lake districts, but these were inlets and small islands at the base of Tierra del Fuego, surrounded by the tidal convergence of two oceans.


Later today we land at the Argentinian city of Ushuaia, where we depart the ship portion of our tour tomorrow for further land and air adventures.

Location:Wulaia, Chile