Climate Change

Now this is more of my idea of a vacation. Glacial hikes behind us, the final few days of this experience are spent back in the tropical climate of northern Argentina, where the additional borders of Brazil and Paraguay collide. In fact, I'm reclining poolside (in the shade, of course) at my hotel in Iguazu, Argentina, overlooking the greenery of Paraguay.


Temps have moved from near freezing at Cape Horn to the upper 80's here. It's a day of relief after several spent traveling out of Patagonia. On disembarking from the expedition ship at Ushuaia, we enjoyed an additional day at that southernmost city in the world, which has grown to a boom town of 100,000 in the past twenty years. This is the gateway to Antarctica, and many visitors flood the streets of the former Argentinean penal colony. The main street is crowded with folk art, native jewelry and tourist dives. It has a flavor much like Sitka, Alaska, with less Palin and more Spanish. The culinary highlight is king crab, which I eagerly awaited. Our dinner restaurant served it in many varieties; I selected crabmeat baked in a garlic and olive oil casserole, with a "Russian" salad of cold potato chunks, peas, carrots and, of all things, a mayonnaise-base dressing. Yum.

POTHOLES AND RIVERS
Dinner followed a terrific day exploring the outskirts of Ushuaia. Our group was invited to the home of one of the local guides, who served us a brunch of beef and chicken empanadas from her domicile, with commanding views of some of the Atlantic saltwater inlets that pervade this town. This was preceded by some 4-wheel drive Jeep action. Small groups were escorted through the back trails outside of town, where deep ruts were often filled with rainwater. It was a bouncy, muddy and hilarious experience. Here we are negotiating a ravine stream created by a large beaver dam, to the right. Dams are everywhere in Patagonia, as the beaver, only introduced a few years ago, have taken over the riparian environment.


Our next morning found us back on LAN Chile Airlines, heading to Buenos Aires. It was another long day of travel, but fun awaited us late afternoon at our hotel when the group was introduced to ... our tango instructors for the evening! After a patient hour on their part, we mastered the art form (yeah, right). Lots of laughs, and reminiscent of the tango craze of the late 80's, when my friends and I studied the dance in earnest, and actually spent evenings lookin' good. Well, I'm game to resume if they are.

DINNER IS NOT AT EIGHT
This was our farewell evening for those on the main tour, who would not be joining us for the excursion northward to Iguazu. We enjoyed a dinner party together at a fine Buenos Aires location, where most of us savored the hometown favorite: Argentinean sirloin, grilled perfectly. Meals in Chile and Argentina are served on a different schedule than those in the northern hemisphere. Breakfast is later than ours; lunch as well and followed by a siesta. Dinner is very late; sometimes as late as 11 p.m. The streets of Buenos Aires are teeming with crowds well after midnight, even midweek. I get the impression that most folks here survive on around six hours of evening sleep. And they do party hearty.

HOW IT'S SUPPOSED TO BE DONE
And so, despite the long travel day, about a dozen of us followed dinner with a late evening performance of tango and local music at a marvelous cabaret, with stunning choreography and costuming.


The music was provided by a combo consisting of accordions, violins, piano, guitar and bass. Seven elegant couples provided an array of athletic tango styles, interspersed with male and female singers and instrumental pieces. We recognized one of our brave dance instructors of earlier in the day as part of the ensemble. However, on him it looked good.

Although the day was full, it was invigorating. After only a few hours sleep, we were aboard LAN Chile again for the morning hop farther north to Iguazu. We'll be here two nights, with lots of hiking around the Argentinean and Brazilian sides of the main event: mighty Iguazu Falls, beginning tomorrow.

Location:Iguazu, Argentina