Cruisin' Tierra del Fuego - 1

Internet connectivity in this part of Patagonia is a concept for some future entrepreneur, so these next few entries are journals to be posted once I reachieve urban Argentina. Here are highlights, in no particular order.

THE WINDY COASTS OF PATAGONIA
By the time we completed our fourth day of hiking through the awesome scenic beauty of the national parks mentioned earlier, our group of 24 stalwart tourists came to the conclusion that there were no turkeys in the crowd, and we'd coalesce into a fun group of motivated travelers. Our trip leader, Carlos, was the key factor, exuding as much energy as learned tidbits about local customs, color and, of course, cuisine. Laughter came easily, as everyone was determined to get the most out of this fascinating opportunity.

One day we took a long hike along a mountain lake that included chunks of blue icebergs bobbing close to its shore. The expanse of beachfront was composed of a collection of rounded dark rocks of various sizes and geologic derivation. Nearer the frigid water one of our group, a charming lady from Guatemala, found that her shoe was wedged between rocks and heavy sand. The situation was not improved when her outstretched walking stick became similarly encased. Although this was hardly quicksand scenario, each rescuer had to precariously negotiate the goo. Laughter reached its height when finally, as if managing a fire line, we extricated the lady, but not the shoe. That took a separate rescue mission. But, for now, humanoids triumphed over the elements.

ABOUT THAT WIND
Each time we face the increasing intensity of Patagonian bluster, we assume we've experienced the strongest wind possible. And each time, we're wrong. This is many times stronger than the gusts that blew over me in Chicago, up to 150 kilometers/hour. Branches of trees along the shore mature in a permanently horizontal configuration.


We've been trained to drop to one knee when facing a blast that will flatten anyone upright. (Are we having fun yet? Yes!) My walking stick helps. And, of course, with it I do look noticeably dashing.

ESTANCIA RIO VERDE
We spent a delightful day and overnight on a Patagonian sheep and cattle ranch. This estancia, one of the largest, manages 10,000 sheep. The owners and staff were gracious and charming; the decor rustic (generated lights out at 11 p.m.) and the authentic Chilean food delicious, including an "asado de cordero" (lamb barbecue). We could be reasonably assured that the lamb was fresh.


Our timing was lucky, as this was the week for the end of summer shearing, not of the complete sheep but only of the wool around its eyes. Since these animals live solely outdoors throughout the year, sheep without this particular trim would be prone to blindness due to the winter freezing of wool otherwise over its eyes. I was surprised at how docile these animals can be. Once picked up for shearing, they demonstrate no resistance at all, bleating the occasional protest only if held too long.

TO THE SHIP
After moving on to the city of Punta Arenas (nice shopping, but inadequate internet for blogging) prior to boarding the cruise portion of the trip, we stopped for drinks at the main hotel. Moving through the area, I heard someone say, "That looks like Al Zemsky!" and once again, as in previous trips in Cambodia and Italy, I ran into a former colleague from EPA. Not only were Ann and Ken Bigos passing through Punta Arenas, but they were booked on the same expedition ship into Tierra del Fuego as I. So we'll spend additional time together. Small world, even on this southern tip of South America.

Location:Punta Arenas, Chile